Cross Country Trip 2002
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July 2-- We reach the Atlantic during Eastern heat wave

-- See photos below "Itinerary" below --

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------Update 1 --------------------------------------------------------
OUR TRIP DESCRIBED ON NEW ENGLAND TELEVISION
Fenway Park management learned of our trip somehow (OK, we slipped 'em a note) and in the 6th inning a Red Sox official
climbed up into the Bleachers in the far, far reaches-- where we had seats among wild beer-swigging college kids -- and personally
escorted us to Grandstand seats right behind home plate.
Then, we learned, the television crew announcing the game described our trip to the audience throughout New England.
---------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------Update 2 ------------------------------------------------------------
WE ARRIVE HOME SAFELY AFTER A LONG 56-HOUR DRIVE
On Wednesday, July 10, we left Maine at 6 am and drove straight through (except for gas stops and a two-hour sleep near Chicago),
arriving home before noon on Friday, July 12. There are some darned scarey curves out there at 2 am. But, Amtrak, eat your heart out.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------Additions -----------------------------------------------------------
WE WILL ADD SOME NEW ENTERTAINING SECTIONS SOON
We have thrived on the interest so many have shown in our trip, plus the support of our friends and relatives upon whom we imposed
ourselves during our travel. As a small way of saying "thanks" we are working not only on a 'thank-you' section but also on a 'highlights'
section, (we saw some really really weird things and would like to list them) and in a small way repay the gracious people who
hosted us or cared enough to follow our adventure. Please visit again soon for our latest effort.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Despite 98-degree temperatures and near 100-percent humidity John, Paul and Bruce pushed 108 miles
on the last day to reach the Maine coast at Ogunquit, thus finishing their cross-continental bike ride.

Local headlines proclaimed "HOT! HOT! HOT!" with locals wilting in the heat. Ice machines were
empty and beaches full.

But heat was just a backdrop as the riders neared what was for each a lifelong dream -- crossing the
continent by bicycle.

As they wheeled their bikes across the sands of Ogunquit Beach they each felt a surprising surge
of emotions and put the bikes aside for a group hug as bystanders watched.

"We actually made it!"

Curious beachgoers asked about the trip and watched with grins as the three cyclists posed for pictures.

The trio rode 3,146 miles in 38 days (including four days off because of weather and various
setbacks), averaging just under 100 miles per riding day.

New England proved to be even more hilly than expected, requiring nearly 7,000 feet of climbing
on each of several days to cross. (We were informed by local cyclists we had chosen one of the three
toughest routes across Vermont.) Far harder, though, was the relentless heat and humidity.

Long, steep climbs made cooling off difficult as the last afternoon wore on.

But the final dozen miles were easier -- the terrain was less rugged and marine air dropped
air temperatures to a comfortable 91 degrees.

Following a couple days rest, Bruce, Paul and John planned several days of roughing it --on the
beach, touring Bar Harbor, trying the local lobster, taking an Amtrak train to Boston for a
Red Sox game in Fenway Park, and celebrating the Fourth of July at a lakeside home in New Hampshire.

The really tough part of the trip begins July 10: the intense drive home via Interstates.

------
Earlier ....

T-Storms plague us as we head for Vermont

Storms continued following us into the Adirondack Mountains of New York . Over several days we dodged
a series of severe thunderstorms, always just managing to find safety under overpasses or on
the porches of local town halls -- once even dashing into a golf snack shop near Pulaski, NY
just as lightning struck the adjacent pole and knocked out power. (We later learned a local
woman was struck and killed in her yard by lightning at the same time -- news that sharply
sobered us.)

In such conditions we have sought out motels when possible. But upstate New York is highly rural and
in many cases we have camped. Our tents keep us dry but rolling up wet gear in the morning is a
routine we have grown used to but never prefer.

The terrain has gradually grown steeper, with roads often rising beside rushing streams. Friday's (June
28) ride exceeded 4,000 feet in climb and we expect much more as we head into the Green
Mountains of Vermont on Sunday. (The climb counts all the hills, and ignores downhills. Thus
we can climb 4,000 feet a day but be only 800 feet higher in elevation at the end of the day; it
is simply a measure of the rigor of the day's efforts.)

Upstate New York is very green, with small towns built around logging and fishing (sound familiar?)
We are now into prime vacation time and as we run into the occasional tourist spot the traffic
has become heavy, making our 6:30 am starts even more vital.

Friday night we stayed in the Country Club Motel in Old Forge, NY -- it happens the owner, Bill, is an
avid cyclist himself and gave us a special discount. He also gave us some tips on alternate
roads, and was so excited by our tour he abandoned the front desk (with the grudging
permission of his wife) so he could ride with us Saturday.

At Walt's Diner that morning he introduced us around to the locals (mostly very hefty men eating
sausage, bacon, eggs, homefries and buttered bread) and they were incredulous we had cycled from
Washington. Paul, unnoticed in civilian clothes, (he was sagging that day) stayed behind to
finish his coffee and observed as the diner crowd came alive with comments once the cyclists
had left.

"You wouldn't get me out there on a bike!" the chef yelled. "Not a mile!" (Approving laughter.)

"All the way from Washington State? They must be chasing a rainbow!" said another, wiping the egg
from his plate with a piece of toast.

"I wouldn't do that," said a third. "Wind up in the middle of nowhere dying of a heart attack--
Notice they didn't tell you how many of 'em started out!" (Gales of laughter.)

Saturday, June 29, we planned to stop in historic Ticonderoga at the Vermont border, and take a ferry
the next morning (June 30) across Lake Champlain and on into Vermont. Closing in!

Earler ----

NIAGARA FALLS ; SETBACK IN ONTARIO

After passing the 2,500-mile mark, we crossed back into the USA, choosing a rickety bridge
known locally as the "Whirlpool Bridge." This was on a tip from a friendly Canadian who said the
Canadians use this old bridge to avoid long lines at US Customs (tourists don't know about this
route.) Sure enough we were the only vehicle entering and after a couple easy questions
("OK, guys, how many cases of Canadian beer and Scotch are you bringing over?" "None" "OK, on
your way!") we were back in the States.

The most pleasant surprise of the trip so far has been southern Ontario, with its garden-like farms,
vistas of Lakes Erie, Huron and Ontario, and friendly drivers (a relief after the monsters of Michigan.)

For sustained, agreeable pleasure, Ontario has been the highlight. But ironically this positive place
dealt us the worst setback of our trip.

Staying in the Comfort Inn of Niagara Falls, Ontario, we were awakened at 3 am by the front
desk, which said one of our bikes had been stolen from the top of our van.

Rushing down to the parking lot, we discovered our security cable had been sliced and Paul's bike
taken, along with John's Aero-bladed front wheel.

Much of the rest of the night was spent talking with police, putting the remaining bikes into the
motel storage, and sitting dejectedly in the lobby wondering what we could do next.

We were told bike thefts are quite common in Niagara and it apparently is something of an
industry among certain locals. (The Canadians we spoke with were extremely sympathetic and
apologetic.)

Next morning, a search of the Internet provided us with almost unbelievable luck -- there was a dealer
nearby (in St. Catharines, ON) who carried our recumbent bikes. (The next nearest was hundreds
of miles away, near Pennsylvania.) So we packed up and drove the 15 miles. Most of the day
was spent getting the bike set up for lengthy travel. That afternoon we rode the Niagara River
Parkway Trail to the Falls, and then went across to the USA.

Disaster -- but the tour continues.

--------------

See below for photos.

----------------

---------------


Stay tuned for updates! Prior dispatches on "Cross Country 2002 Continued."

PLEASE SEE BELOW FOR LATEST PHOTOS!!!

Itinerary
May 25 Drive to Omak, WA (DONE)
May 26 Omak, WA to Republic, WA (64 miles) - Climb over Wauconda Pass -4,310 feet (DONE)
May 27 Republic, WA to Flodell Creek Campground - 20 miles east of Colville, WA (71 miles) Climb over Sherman Pass - 5,575 feet(DONE + extra)
May 28 Flodell Creek Campground to Newport, WA (58 miles) (DONE)
May 29 Newport, WA to Cabinet Gorge Campground - 20 miles east of Clark Fork, MT (74 miles) (DONE)
May 30 Cabinet Gorge to Tony Peak Campground - 14 miles east of Libby, MT (63 miles) (DONE + Extra)
May 31 Tony Peak Campground to Eureka, MT (55 miles)( DONE -- combined with next day's ride)
June 1 Eureka, MT to Whitefish, MT (52 miles)(DONE with prior day.)
June 2 Whitefish, MT to Lake McDonald Campground - 11 east of West Glacer (38 miles) (DONE June 1)
June 3 Lake McDonald Campground to Cut Bank, MT (105 miles) Climb over the Rockies via Going to the Sun Highway - 6,650 feet (DONE via Rt. 2 June 2)
June 4 Cut Bank, MT to Hingham, MT (92 miles)(DONE June 3)
June 5 Hingham, MT to Harlem, MT (78 miles) (DONE June 4)
June 6 Harlem, MT to Hindsdale, MT (88 miles)(DONE -- plus 30 miles to Glasgow June 5)
June 7 Hindsdale, MT to Wolf Point, MT (DONE --Combined with next day)(79 miles)
June 8 Wolf Point, MT to Williston, ND (98 miles) Out of Montana at last!(DONE June 6)
June 9 Williston, ND to Makoti, ND (107 miles) DONE
June 10 Makoti, ND to Freesenden, ND (111 miles) DONE
June 11 Freesenden, ND to Cooperstown, ND (83 miles)DONE
June 12 Cooperstown, ND to Ada, MN (95 miles)DONE
June 13 Ada, ND to Walker, MN (109 miles)DONE
June 14 Walker, MN to Floodwood, MN (87 miles)DONE
June 15 Floodwood, MN to Iron River, WI (90 miles)DONE
June 16 Iron River, WI to Wakefield, MI (77 miles)DONE
June 17 Wakefield, MI to Crystal Falls, MI (88 miles)DONE
June 18 Crystal Falls, MI to Escanaba, MI (84 miles)DONE
June 19 Escanaba, MI to Naubinway, MI (101 miles)DONE
June 20 Nubinway, MI to Charlevoix, MI (98 miles)DONE
June 21 Day off in Charlevoix, MI DONE
June 22 Charlevoix, MI to Roscommon, MI (108 miles)DONE
June 23 Roscommon, MI to Saginaw, MI (86 miles)DONE
June 24 Saginaw, MI to Port Huron, MI (105 miles) Finally out of Michigan!DONE
June 25 Port Huron, MI to Port Burwell, Onterio (105 miles) DONE
June 26 Port Burwell, Onterio to Rock Point, Onterio (79 miles)DONE
June 27 Rock Point, Onterio to Lockport, NY via Niagra Falls (60 miles)DONE
June 28 Lockport, NY to Palmyra, NY (103 miles)DONE
June 29 Palmyra, NY to Port Ontario, NY (91 miles)DONE June 27
June 30 Port Ontario, NY to Old Forge (DONE)June 28
July 1 (Now June 29)Old Forge, NY to Ticondiroga, NY(100 miles)
July 2 (Now June 30) Ticondiroga, NY to Bethel, VT (81 miles)
July 3 (Now July 1) Bethel, Vt to Enfield, NH (36 miles)
July 5 (Now July 2) Enfield, NH to Ogunquit, ME (111 miles) ATLANTIC OCEAN
July 6 (Now July 3) ???
July 7 - Boston Red Sox vs Detroit Tigers at Fenway Park in Boston.
July 8-9 Explore the coast of Maine
July 10-13/14 Drive Back to Olympia, WA


On the beach at Maine
Can't go much farther --without waterbikes, that is.

Another interesting lighthouse at Sodus Point, NY
Lots of scenic spots along Lake Ontario
Bill Wengert, Hotelier, gives the recumbent a try
Bill gave us some tips on local roads and took a
break from the front desk to cycle with us
for a day.
Another interesting home in NY
One of the pleasures of cycling across the
country is seeing how people live in different
places.
Another day another century
Example of our progress into the Midwest last week.
Scary Bridge into Wisconsin
Watch out for trucks! Bruce checks the sign.
Bucolic scene in Michigan's Upper Peninsula
Typical highway in Michigan's Upper Peninsula
Shiny section is rain ahead. It rained the rest of the way to Watersmeet, MI, where we checked, dripping, into the last motel room available in town.
Moving ocean of grass near the ND border --(& Sag Wagon)

Mackinac Bridge from Michigan's Upper Peninsula
We drove across to get to the "Hand" of Michigan.





For more go to Cross Country Trip Con't 2002